Whole Dog Journal came out with an article called, “Rabies is Still a Deadly Threat.”

I agree with them,  over vaccination is a problem. There is compelling evidence which show over vaccination can cause things such as autoimmune diseases, allergies and even cancer!

You want to make sure you dog is vaccinated according to what you dog needs. You need to make sure your dog has enough anti bodies to protect against Rabies, Distemper, Parvo, Lepto and all the diseases we vaccinate for. Each of these diseases are very real and still do pose a threat.

One of the best ways to make certain you are not over vaccinating or under vaccinating your dog is to have your vet do a titer on your dog.

What is a titer? Titers are a blood test that measures the actual level of protection your dog’s immune systems has against certain diseases.

If the antibody levels measure high enough, then your dog is protected against that particular disease, which means you do not need to get a booster. Yes Titers are more expensive,  it is a price I am willing to pay to have the peace of mind knowing whether I need to vaccinate my dogs or not.

A must watch for anyone who owns or works with dogs. The signs of bloat are obvious in the video.

Here is a video showing the signs of bloat -The dog in the video does live =)



Happy Halloween! I thought it might be helpful to give a few tips on how to keep our pets happy and healthy for this fun holiday.

1. Keep all candy away from your dog. Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to dogs and of course sugar is not good for dogs either. It can make them sick.

2. Designate a safe spot for your dog indoors. Costumes can scare dogs. Costumes change the way we look, add that to unfamiliar people knocking on the door and your dog might run out the door. Also, Halloween is a night for pranks, most are harmless but your dog may not like an egg being thrown at them.

3. Glow sticks can be harmful. Make sure you dog does not chew on a glow stick. The chemicals inside of glow sticks can make your dog sick and burn their mouth.

4. Watch out for candy wrappers, they still smell yummy enough to eat even when the candy is all gone. They can become a choking hazard to your dog.

5. Be careful when using candles near your dog. Your dog may knock over a candle-lit pumpkin leading to burns or a fire. Consider using a battery-lit no flame candle instead, and as an extra bonus you can use it for many years to come.

If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult your veterinarian or the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 or www.aspca.org/apcc (a fee applies).  Have a safe and fun Halloween.

Open wounds – which can happen from bites, cuts, lacerations and abrasions.

Choking – Dogs are more prone to choking than cats, because cats are finicky eaters and do not inhale their food.

Heat Related Injury – this includes heat stroke and burns. As many of you know dogs cool themselves by panting and can get overheated very quickly, especially if left in a car during the summer.

Insect Bite, Sting and Allergic Reactions – ants, bees, wasps, spiders, pretty much any insect or arachnid.

Snakebites – whether or not the snake is poisonous, the bacteria in a snake’s mouth can cause infection.

I have had First Aid/CPR for humans many times and consider my dogs just as important, which is why I am looking forward to my upcoming Pet Tech’s PetSaver Training class. After I complete the class, I hope to share photos and information with you.

Do you know what to do if one of the above medical emergency’s were to happen to you? If you answered no, I recommend taking a pet first aid/CPR class.

According to ASPCA some of the most deadly toxins to your dog can be found in our homes and yards. Here is a partial list of some toxins you may not know about.

Human medications – medications can cause kidney and/or liver failure and bleeding.

Insecticides – we often use insecticides on our dogs in the form of flea and tick control.

Rodenticides – the food used to attract rats and other rodents also attract our dogs.

People food – Xylitol, found in some sugarless gum, can cause a your dogs blood sugar level to drop fast and/or liver failure. Read poisonous foods for dogs for a more complete list.

Veterinary Medications – when an over dose occurs they can cause a myriad of problems for your dog.

The above list is by no means all-inclusive. There are still many other toxins that are harmful or fatal to dogs. If your dog does eat something toxic or if you think your dog has become poisoned. Immediately call the Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA) at 1-888-426-4435 and try to identify the cause of the poisoning to determine how much poison was consumed.

Last Tuesday my husband and I took our two pups out for a walk at the local dog park. The dog park has a small lake (more like a mud puddle really), which also doubles as a place for kids to fish. We left the truck and began hiking the path that meanders along the base of the hillside and then loops down around the lake. This little walk takes about thirty minutes and amounts to about one mile.

The walk was going great; Our dogs were happily running through the tall grass looking for abandoned tennis balls while my husband and I strolled along the path. We turned toward the lake and began our walk around it and as usual the dogs leaped into the murky water to cool off and ensure the attention of a bath that evening.

We were about ¼ of the way around when my husband stopped and said, “Oh no!” He strode over to Rusty and opened Rustys mouth. That’s when I also noticed the fishing line emerging from the corner of my beloved dog’s mouth.

“We need to go,” my husband said, “There’s a fishing hook in the back of his mouth.”

“Can we get it out?” I asked.

“No, this is a job for a vet.”

Tense with concern, I didn’t argue, and we quickly began retracing our steps back towards our truck. We’d started our walk after normal business hours and of course, at this time our regular vet was closed. I quickly used my Droid to get the phone number for the local emergency veterinarian. The receptionist informed me it would be a minimum charge of $85 just to look at Rusty. Like the hook in Rusty’s mouth, I felt a bitter sting at the sudden knowledge of how costly the carelessly discarded fish hook would be. I let her know to expect us in thirty minutes and hung up the phone.

As we walked, I kept a close eye on Rusty. He wasn’t giving any outward signs of pain, but I could tell the hook was bothering him. In frustration over the object piercing the tender skin at the back of his throat, he chewed at the line in his mouth and periodically shook his head.

As we approached the parking lot, I noticed a large group of people and dogs arriving for their evening walk. We immediately called Rusty and Sadie over and had them heel beside us. The group contained around four dogs that were behaving very erratically, barking and running around excitedly as their owners completely ignored them. One particular dog, a medium-sized white bulldog of an unknown breed was wearing a lime-green backpack. The bulldog was attacking every dog in the immediate area, biting, fighting, and body-slamming every dog it saw. In what seemed like a split second the bulldog bit Rusty. They fought for a moment, mostly Rusty was trying to get away. The fight ended with the ill-mannered bulldog running off in pursuit of its next victim.

Already feeling very protective of my injured dog, this unprovoked attack made me furious. Especially since the dog’s owner was calling for his dog to come, but didn’t seem very concerned over his pet’s behavior. His animal clearly needed to be on a leash until it could be properly socialized. I wanted to give the bulldog’s owner a piece of my mind, but we still needed to get Rusty to the vet. I diverted my attention back to the truck and loading Rusty and Sadie into it.

Since we were clueless as to how long we would be at the vet, and because it was on the way, we decided to drop Sadie off at home before taking Rusty in. We pulled into the garage and opened the back of the truck. I told Rusty to stay, but perhaps he knew what he was in for, because he chose not to listen and quickly followed Sadie inside the house. It turned out that Rusty’s momentary lapse in obedience was a good thing, otherwise we might not have noticed the blood.

The crimson blood drops were a sharp contrast against the pale-oak laminate floor in our house. At first I thought they were from Rusty’s mouth, but when my husband went to open Rusty’s mouth again. My husband’s hand found a sticky wet spot on Rusty’s left flank and came away with blood staining his fingers. The bulldog with the lime-green backpack had left his mark.

Moments later, the receptionist working at the Emergency Veterinarian Clinic buzzed us through the door. We were given some quick paperwork to complete and hustled into a room to wait for the veterinarian. A few minutes later, Cynthia Delany, DVM came in to perform Rusty’s initial assessment. I immediately liked Doctor Delany’s demeanor with Rusty. She was very gentle, kind and petted him throughout the examination, which helped make my traumatized pooch and I feel at ease.

After the initial assessment, we were given an estimate of the cost for the work to be performed. The estimated cost of the work needed to patch up poor Rusty would be over $450. Why so much? Well, since the fishhook was inside Rusty’s mouth he would need to be anesthetized prior to it’s removal. Doctor Delany said she would clean and examine the bite on his side during this time. I was concerned about the risks posed by the anesthesia, but knew in this case it couldn’t be avoided. We gave our permission and signed the estimate.

The vet tech started by giving Rusty a shot in his butt. The shot contained a drug to help relax him prior to fixing him with the IV required for his surgery. After the calming drug had taken effect, they gently led a now muzzled Rusty into the back to start removing the fishhook. They told us it would take Doctor Delany thirty minutes to finish, so we decided to return home and feed Sadie.

When we returned to the Emergency Veterinarian Clinic, we paid the bill and listened as they explained Rusty’s discharge instructions to us. Because the fishhook was dirty and the injury was located in his mouth Rusty was prescribed antibiotics and given an anti-inflammatory to reduce the swelling. The wound on his side required cleaning and four staples. Poor Rusty!

We carefully transported our very dazed and confused pup back home. My little guy was completely out of it, and he periodically needed to stop and lean against the wall to avoid falling down. All this because one negligent person was too lazy to be bothered with properly disposing of their fishhook and left it where it could be stepped on, or eaten by an unsuspecting animal.

Here is an excellently written article by Lucy with The Honest Kitchen about Human Grade Dog Food.

There are many dog food companies who claim their food is “human grade” however there are very few that can legally label their food as “human grade.” What dog owners need to know is that dog food manufacturers who use “human grade” or another related term on their website but not on their dog food label are not held to the same standard.

Many of our inspecting agencies are so short staffed the inspectors only take time to investigate claims made on the packing/labels of dog food.

The definition of human grade refers to the quality of a finished product. The term applies to a product that is legally suitable and approved for consumption by a person (“edible”). Where as Feed-Grade applies to a product that is not suitable for consumption by people and is only legally allowed to be fed to animals (“inedible”) due to the ingredients listed or how it was processed.

Many ingredients used in dog food are not fit for human consumption, or in my opinion fit for your dog’s consumption. These ingredients can include the 4D’s (animals that are dying, diseased, disabled or deceased.) Other ingredient can be chemicals, fillers, artificial flavors/colors, and by-products.

A good example rendered meat. Meat rendering plants are defined by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as, “Meat rendering plants process animal by-product materials for the production of tallow, grease, and high-protein meat and bone meal….. Independent plants obtain animal by-product materials, including grease, blood, feathers, offal, and entire animal carcasses, from the following sources: butcher shops, supermarkets, restaurants, fast-food chains, poultry processors, slaughterhouses, farms, ranches, feedlots, and animal shelters.”

The term does not mean that a finished product is actually, legally, human grade either. An ingredient (let’s say, a carrot) may start off being fit for human consumption, but once that carrot has been shipped to a pet food plant and processed in accordance with regulations for feed-grade products, the ‘human-grade’ term can no longer legally be used. By definition, that carrot is now feed-grade.

Human food is produced in accordance with the FDA  (Food and Drug Administration) Code of Federal regulations (CFR)Title 21. The CFR is a very in-depth document that defines how human food production should take place, and under what conditions.

The FDA is currently working on legislation for the regulation of pet food, and its web site defines this as follows: “There is no requirement that pet food products have pre-market approval by the FDA. However, FDA ensures that the ingredients used in pet food are safe and have an appropriate function in the pet food.  Many ingredients such as meat, poultry and grains are considered safe and do not require pre-market approval.  Other substances such as sources of minerals, vitamins or other nutrients, flavorings and preservatives, or processing aids may be generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for their intended use (See Title 21 CFR 582 and 584) or must have approval as food additives…”

The FDA’s Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) requires that pet foods, like human foods, be safe to eat, produced under sanitary conditions, contain no harmful substances, and be truthfully labeled.

AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials, is a corporation whose purpose is to provide a mechanism for establishing and maintaining equitable laws, regulations and definitions and enforcement policies for regulating the manufacture, labeling, distribution and sale of animal feeds. Many states follow the regulations established by AAFCO, though each state can have its own regulations and feed control laws.

How does human food production actually differ from pet food production?

The following table provides abbreviated excerpts from the AAFCO regulations for feed production (AAFCO Official Publication 2010) and the FDA’s CFR Title 21 for human food production. The table outlines some of the contrasts between the regulations for (food grade) human food and (feed grade) pet food. For a more detailed comparison of the two sets of regulations in PDF format, click here.

AAFCO Feed Definitions:

Adulteration means the presence of any poisonous or deleterious substance at a level that may render the feed and / or feed ingredient injurious to human or animal health.

Establishment includes, but is not limited to, buildings structures, facilities, equipment and conveyances that receive, store, manufacture, process, package, label, transport or distribute feed and / or feed ingredients.

Pest means any objectionable animal including but not limited to bats, birds, rodents, insects and insect larvae.

In addition to the above model regulations for feed manufacturing, AAFCO places a major emphasis on feed definitions and terms, label format, brand and product names, expression of guarantees, ingredient definitions and terms, nutritional adequacy and other details which pertain to a pet food label.

Pet food labeling is regulated at two levels. The current FDA regulations require proper identification of the product, net quantity statement, name and place of business of the manufacturer or distributor, and a proper listing of all the ingredients in the product in order from most to least, based on weight.

When shopping the pet food aisle, look for a brand that is marked as being produced in a human food factory under FDA or USDA inspection. If in doubt, call your pet food manufacturer and ask them what sort of facility produces their products, and what inspections that facility undergoes.

By Lucy

Between my husband and I Sadie and Rusty get out for a walk pretty much everyday. Sunday, when Chris was out walking  Sadie and Rusty, they found something nasty to eat. Chris told them to leave it but not fast enough it turns out.

Fast forward a day to Monday, Chris comes home from work, he works a 10 hour shift plus 40 minutes worth of drive time.  He opened the front door and was accosted by the worst dog poo smell ever. It seemed one or both dogs had diarrhea. Even though 80% of our house is covered with laminate flooring Sadie/Rusty had to have their accident on the area rug in the front room.

If your dog/dogs happen to get acute diarrhea here is a recipe that may help, it worked for Sadie and Rusty.

Boil some chicken, I used boneless skinless.

Cook up some rice, I used brown long grain rice

I mixed the chicken and rice together in about a 50/50 combination. This was what Sadie and Rusty had in place of their regular dog food. I also added a capsule with 3.4 billion beneficial probiotics.

If you need more information about diarrhea Jana Rade from Dawg Business has an excellent series on diarrhea.

Anyone who has cared for a puppy realizes how quickly they grow. Sometimes, it seems as though you can see them growing overnight. This rapid growth means that puppies have very special nutritional needs that differ from those of an adult dog.

Why feed puppy food?

Among other nutritional demands, puppies require higher energy levels and higher protein levels than most adult dogs to reach optimum growth. They also have different calcium and phosphorus needs. As a result, feeding a puppy food that is formulated to meet these specialized needs is a good idea for a growing puppy. Puppy foods (also sometimes referred to as growth formulas) are produced to meet these special nutritional demands and provide optimum levels of energy, protein, calcium, phosphorus and the other nutrients that growing puppies need to thrive.

Can puppies be raised on adult dog foods instead?

In truth, yes, they can. However, though a puppy fed an adult diet may do okay on the diet, he may not actually thrive on the diet. Though some of the puppy’s nutritional needs may be met by simply increasing the amount of food consumed, other needs may remain somewhat unbalanced.

Imbalances in nutritional needs can lead to many health problems. For instance, particularly in large breed puppies, imbalances in calcium and phosphorus can lead to abnormalities in bone development. And excessive calorie intake can lead to a puppy that becomes obese, leading to a number of health issues as the puppy ages.Feeding a well-balanced puppy food instead of an adult dog food diet will help avoid these types of imbalances.

How long should a puppy be fed puppy food?

Puppies should continue to be fed a high quality puppy food until they have reached maturity. The age this happens will vary from breed to breed.

Generally, small breed dogs mature faster than large breed dogs. Small breed dogs usually mature around a year of age and should remain on puppy food until at least that point. For large breed dogs, maturity may take up to 1 ½ years. Therefore, large breed dogs should continue to eat puppy food longer than most small breeds, generally up to about 1 ½ years of age. Giant breeds mature more slowly still and may not reach their full growth until around 2 years of age. These breeds need to stay on the food longer still.

Lorie Huston is a veterinarian, a free-lance writer and blogger. You can find her on Suite101.com where she is the feature writer in pet care, on About.com where she is a contributing writer in veterinary medicine, on Examiner.com where she is the National Pet Health Examiner and on the Untrained Housewife, where she is the pet columnist. In addition, Lorie maintains the blog, Pet Health Care Gazette.

With Christmas right around the corner, I thought it might be helpful to give a few tips on how to keep our pets happy and healthy throughout the holiday season.

Several of the plants commonly purchased for decorations during the Christmas season are poisonous to pets and children, for example poinsettias and mistletoe. Choose a non-poisonous plant instead; the ASPCA has a listing of poisonous plants and non-poisonous alternatives.

Be wary of tinsel, lights, bulbs, and many other decorations on Christmas trees. These decorations are pretty and festive, but can be dangerous to your pet.  Keep ornaments out of your dog’s reach. What looks like a fun toy may be disastrous if swallowed or chewed and result in serious damage to your pet’s digestive systems.

Christmas is the time of year when we have our family and friends over for holiday festivities. Lots of people, strange smells, and loud noises can spook even the calmest of dogs. It may be a good idea to keep your dog away from the party-goers and occupied with a long lasting chew or toy. Sadie and Rusty love elk anters.

While you may enjoy the holiday candies, treats and drinks be sure to keep them away from your pets. Do not reward your dog’s cuteness by giving him/her a tummy ache. Many holiday treats involve chocolate and while chocolate is wonderful, it also contains an ingredient called theobromine. Theobromine is lethal to dogs, and the darker the chocolate, the more theobromine it contains. Also keep an eye on those candy wrappers they smell like the treat they once contained and can be harmful if swallowed. Be strong, if you want to give your pet a sweet treat, offer your pet one of his/her favorite dog treats. Consider giving Muttos Treats to your dog, 10% of the profits get donated to help animals.

Sweets are not the only thing to avoid feeding your dog. Steer clear of giving your pet table scraps too. Dogs only require so much food each day and human food is not designed for your dog. Just like with sweets your food can cause problems to their digestive tract. You will especially want to avoid giving your dog bones from the table; they can break into sharp splinters and cause serious health problems, and sometimes death.

If you intend on traveling this holiday season and plan on bringing your dog, make sure your friends or family do not mind. Some people are frightened of dogs, and it may be best to leave your dog with a friend. If you cannot find a friend to watch your dog you could board your dog or hire a pet sitter.

If you burn candles during the holidays remember that they can pose a fire-risk, especially if they get knocked over by a curious cat or a wagging tail.

If you are thinking about getting a pet for Christmas, I suggest adopting one from your local animal shelter. There are many wonderful dogs and cats waiting to find their forever home. Both of mine, Rusty and Sadie came from our local shelter.

My integrative veterinary practice stems from personal experience in managing my own chronic health issues through a combination of Western (conventional) and non-conventional medical perspectives. I have achieved success in improving my well being through an integrative medical approach, I intend for my animal patients to experience similar positive benefits.

In my final year of veterinary school at The University of Pennsylvania ( http://www.vet.upenn.edu), I began partaking in regular, vigorous yoga sessions to challenge my physical fitness and maintain emotional balance. Yoga opened my eyes and senses to better understand the true benefits of a clear connection between mind and body.

Unfortunately, leading an athletic lifestyle since childhood caused me to suffer a series of traumatic musculoskeletal injuries. The need to manage chronic pain motivated me to reduce my reliance on medications potentially having adverse side effects. Restorative yoga, chiropractic, acupuncture, physical therapy, healthy diet, supplements, Chinese herbs, and activity/lifestyle modification have resolved nearly all my discomfort.

After graduating veterinary school and completing a clinical internship I had a solid foundation in Western medicine and surgery. Subsequently, I attained IVAS (http://ivas.org) certification in veterinary acupuncture, trained in Chinese herbs, and started my own Los Angeles based business, California Pet Acupuncture and Wellness (CPAW), Inc ( http://www.patrickmahaney.com/consulting-services). Now, every veterinary physical exam I perform and determine a treatment plan. The treatment I recommend integrates both Western and traditional Chinese veterinary medicine (TCVM).

Some of my patients’ conditions respond better to a treatment plan more heavily weighted in Western medicine (medications, surgery, etc). Others patients do better with the TCVM approach (food, energy therapy, acupuncture, Chinese herbs, lifestyle modification, etc).

Acupuncture treatment aims to align the body’s energy, which is imbalanced by illness, injury, surgery, and age. Most of my patients are older, arthritic dogs afflicted by chronic pain who typically deeply relax due to the release of pain relieving hormones. Patients then appear more bright, alert, and exhibit better mobility post treatment.

I also treat adult and geriatric cancer patients, who are in need of pain relief from both musculoskeletal injury and growth of cancer cells damaging healthy tissue. Most cancer patients exhibit anorexia (decreased appetite) caused by their illness or chemotherapy, so acupuncture often improves their appetite and general state of well being.

I feel grateful to have found the integrative approach (for myself and my animal patients), as it has plays a vital role in my veterinary practice.

If you would like to correspond with me about improving your pet’s wellness, please visit www.patrickmahaney.com

http://www.vet.upenn.edu
http://ivas.org
http://www.patrickmahaney.com/consulting-services

Can your dog clear a room in 30 seconds flat? How many times have you been relaxing, watching T.V. or talking with some friends when suddenly your dog breaks wind? Dog gas is probably one of the worst smells out there, unless of course your dog happens to like rolling in something dead, like my frequently pungent pooch, Sadie does.

How do you get rid of, or at least make it so your dog doesn’t pass gas as often? First, you’ll want to take a look at the food your dog is eating. There’s a good chance your dog’s diet is not agreeing with his stomach. Dog gas is caused when bacteria in the digestive tract break down food items producing gas. Here are some major gas causing ingredients to watch out for in your dog’s food.

Grains and starchy foods – Dogs cannot digest grains very easily, if the food you’re feeding your dog is high in corn, wheat, or potatoes (These ingredients make up the bulk of what’s in most commercial dog foods.) your dog will likely have gas. These ingredients give your dog the feeling of being full, but often lead to a gas problem when the food doesn’t get broken down completely while in the stomach. Once the undigested food moves into the large intestine it quickly ferments, which produces several types of gas: carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen and hydrogen sulfide, or the odor you smell when your dog farts.

Lack of enzymes – Enzymes help break down and digest food in your dog’s stomach. Your dog will naturally have some enzymes, but he doesn’t produce a lot of amylase enzymes, which are responsible for breaking down grains and carbohydrates. This is because your dog was never meant to eat a lot of grains and carbohydrates. Most supermarket dog foods, both canned and kibble don’t contain enzymes because they were destroyed during the cooking process.

Food Allergies – Many dog foods are high in ingredients, which are known to cause allergies in many dogs, for example, wheat and soy. Just like people, some dogs are even lactose intolerant.

Table Scraps – A lot of human foods do not break down well in your dog’s stomach.

Feeding a high quality food with chicken, lamb, or fish listed among the top ingredients can lead to a more comfortable pet with less frequent gas. Another benefit of exceptional quality kibble will become apparent in your backyard. Your dog will be able to digest a high quality kibble better, which means smaller poop that doesn’t smell quite as bad. The contents of your dog’s poop can be an excellent indicator for just how healthy your dog is. A good diet will produce fewer by-products because your dog can digest more of his food leaving less mess for you to pick up later.

I feed both of my dogs, Pure Woof Gold. Your dog will love you for feeding him/her a tasty food, that will cause fewer bellyaches with less dog gas.

Every dog owner should have a dog first aid kit. One of the problems with many of the first aid kits on the market, they all are missing items that should be included in your dog first aid kit and they’re very expensive for what you get. Here is a list of the items your pet first aid kit should contain.

Dressings & Bandages:

1. Adhesive Tape (1 inch roll)
2. Gauze Pads (3 or 4 inch square)
3. Gauze Rolls (2 inch for small dogs, 3 inch for big dogs)
4. Triangular Bandages
5. Individually-Wrapped Sanitary Napkins

Instruments:

1. Digital Thermometer (check battery twice a year)
2. Scissors (blunt end)
3. Tweezers
4. Eye Dropper
5. Syringe (12cc with needle removed)

Ointments, Disinfectants & Medications:

1. Antihistamine (gel caps in blister pack, poke hole in cap and squirt into your dogs’ mouth)
2. Antibiotic (triple) – ex. Neosporin
3. Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)
4. Vinegar or Baking Soda (a mild alkali for neutralizing burns caused by acids)
5. Activated Charcoal (for absorbing poisons)
6. Petroleum Jelly (or other sterile lubricant for thermometer)
7. Kaopectate
8. Chemical Ice Pack

Miscellaneous Equipment & Supplies:

1. Small Flashlight
2. Needle Nose Pliers
3. Q-tips
4. Betadine Solution
5. Razor Blades
6. Extra Leash and Collar
7. Muzzle
8. Plastic Bags (for clean up or samples)
9. Permanent Marking Pen
10. Photo of You and Your Pet
11. Towel or Blanket (large enough to transport your dog)
12. Gloves (Latex or Nitrile)

After you gather all the items listed above, place them in a portable container. This way you will be able to take your dog first aid kit with you where ever you go. You never know where you’re going to be when you’ll need to have it with you.

Remember to check expiration dates on all items every six months.

I take Sadie and Rusty out for daily walks. They like to explore and just like a child, they sometimes end up with bumps, scrapes or in Rusty’s case, a sore on his pad. Rusty has a minor abrasion on his left front paw. Many times when your dog gets a cut or scrape you can treat it yourself. If there happens to be a lot of blood or the wound appears to be deep, I would advise taking your dog straight to the vet.

The first thing I did when I noticed Rusty limping was to sit down and have him lay down. I looked at his paw and saw the injury. I made sure the area was clean. In Rusty’s case, I didn’t see any dirt or other debris. If there had been I would have soaked his foot in lukewarm water with Epsom salts for about ten minutes.

Then I used a clean gauze pad to apply some Betadine. You can also just pour a little Betadine directly over the wound itself. When I was finished with the Betadine. I allowed his paw to air-dry.

I put a bandage over the injury using rolled gauze, to keep it clean and prevent Rusty from licking it. After the gauze, I used athletic tape to keep the gauze in place. I also was careful to make sure the bandage was not too bulky, which would make Rusty more likely to try and pull it off.

Depending on your dog you may need to put an Elizabethan Collar on to keep him/her from taking the bandage off. Rusty doesn’t care about his bandage, so I do not have to worry about him taking it off.

Tomorrow I will take the bandage off and check the wound. I will make sure there is no swelling, redness or anything to indicate it has become infected.

I love yoga. However, I always feel just a little guilty when I leave my dogs behind. That is why when I heard of Doga I though it was a great idea. Doga is becoming a popular practice for many dogs and dog owners. What better way to practice yoga than with your dog?

From practiced zen-masters, to novice yogis, dog owners and dogs alike are flocking to yoga studios in a joint-effort to find balance of body and mind.

Doga moves mimic those of the human practice (with the exception of limb flexibility). With a series of stretches, lifts, and massaging, owners work with their dog in a symbiotic exercise.

I love to stay healthy and being able to do a healthy, fun dog-friendly activity is perfect. Most classes consist of five to ten participants. During the class instructors tell students to feel free to see what works for them and their dogs.

Doga doesn’t replace walking your dog and getting exercise. Dogs need to burn off their energy. It does, however, allow for an owner and dog to bond and build trust. I recommend taking your dog out for a nice long walk/run and then heading to the yoga studio for some relaxation after your walk/run. Your dog will be ready to rest, which is a perfect mindset for doing Doga.

Bonding is not the only benefit of Doga. You’ll be petting your dog and manually shifting his body, which allows the you to conduct a full body scan and check for any abnormalities, which may have gone unnoticed. The continuous handling often helps the dog when going to the vets or groomers. And if you’re like me, you’ll be bringing your dog with you, so you won’t feel guilty about leaving him/her behind.

There are skeptics out there who talk about the unnaturalness of dogs practicing the serious tradition of yoga. However, some of the moves in yoga are already naturally performed by dogs in their everyday stretching and movement. For example, happy baby pose, dogs often lie flat on their backs with legs free in the air. And just like the appropriately titled downward facing dog pose, dogs tend to stretch in a half seated position, or bow to engage in “play time” with other dogs.